Air Mail | Sobering Developments

In the waning days of the season of spritzes and tiki cocktails, mezcal margaritas, and endless bottles of rosé, I’ve decided to dry out a little. In fact, given the past few months of excessive lockdown drinking, many of us might benefit from some teetotalism—or perhaps more moderate-minded choices. If a late-summer sunset without a cocktail in hand seems too onerous a sacrifice, there’s an expanding selection of virtuous-feeling, low-A.B.V. aperitifs and spirits for one’s wet bar these days. …

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